Edinburgh to Longyearbyen

Leith is a buzzing port district, home to hip creatives and longtime locals.

A spectacular coastline greets visitors to Papa Stour. The island has layers of ancient volcanic lava and ash; and the softer volcanic rocks have been carved by waves into arches, sea caves, cliffy inlets and rock stacks. These dominate the landscape from both sea and land. The Maiden Stack guards the island’s harbour and is so named because the Viking Lord Thorvald Thoresson marooned his daughter in a small house on the stack to protect her virtue. One story says she escaped by eloping with a fisherman, whilst another tale states she left the stack pregnant! A handful of resilient people still live on Papa Stour Island. In its heyday in the 19th century, the small island of 828 hectares (2046 acres) supported a thriving fishing industry based on six-oared row boats. Fishing is only a small operation today. Crofting, or small-scale farming has been a traditional activity and is still conducted with sheep as hardy as the crofters who tend them. Marine wildlife thrives around Papa Stour. Cliffs, rock stacks and hills support many breeding seabirds in spring and summer. The most travelled bird of all—the Arctic Tern—breeds here. In winter, these plucky small seabirds migrate all the way to the Antarctic. Occasionally European Otters are sighted amongst the kelp. Common and Grey Seals give birth to their pups onshore in summer. Common Seals rest on rocks with their tails and noses up, resembling bananas in shape. Grey Seals are larger, with a long nose, and no fruit copying tendencies.

Described as the most remote inhabited island of the United Kingdom, Foula does seem a world away—32 kilometres (20 miles) west of the main Shetland Islands. The land slopes from a low eastern coast up to dramatic sheer cliffs on the west. At 365 metres (1200 feet), the sea cliffs are the second tallest in Britain. The sandstone of the island has been eroded into dramatic coastal shapes. Earlier islanders lived by catching fish and lobsters. Today’s residents earn an income from sheep crofting (farming) and birdwatching tourism. Foula attracts nesting seabirds during spring with many birds remaining over summer. Britain’s largest population of Great Skuas nest here. They catch fish, scavenge and hunt for the eggs, chicks and even adults of other birds. On flatter parts of the island Red-throated Divers and Arctic Terns nest, while vertical sea cliffs are favoured by Northern Fulmars, Shags and members of the auk family. Foula is Norse for bird island, so when the Norsemen settled 1200 years ago, they were either birdwatchers, or recognised the special nature of the island. Scottish influences eventually replaced much of the Norse culture. The Island claims to be the last place in Britain with speakers of languages of Norse origin. There is still a connection to Norse folklore and music amongst the 30 or so residents today. They still celebrate Christmas and New Year according to dates in the old Julian calendar—Yule on 6th January and Newerday on the 13th. We coordinate our dates with theirs.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets puffins guillemots shags kittiwakes Razorbills fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955 and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

The coastal town of Ålesund is the commercial capital of the Møre og Romsdal district. But more important, it is noted for its characteristic Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) buildings, which some claim make Ålesund one of the most beautiful towns in Norway. This Art Nouveau style emerged when the town was completely rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1904 destroyed nearly 800 buildings and left 10,000 residents homeless. It is said that the fire started by a tipped oil lamp. Rebuilding was carried out with the help of many young, foreign architects who added their own flourishes to the architectural blend of German Jugendstil and Viking roots. Today, narrow streets are crammed with buildings topped with turrets, spires and gables that bear decorations of dragonheads and curlicues. As one of the few remaining Art Nouveau towns in the world, in 1998 Ålesund was awarded the coveted Houens National Memorial Prize for the preservation of its unique architecture.

Runde is an island in southern Norway, some 25 kilometers to the west of Ålesund. Runde’s south and northeast shores have flat ground and a few houses for the roughly 150 regular inhabitants. On the west side of Runde, and facing the open ocean, are impressive cliffs with caves. Here one finds Norway’s southernmost accessible nesting sites of Atlantic Puffins, Black-legged Kittiwakes, Razorbills, Northern Gannets, and Common Guillemots. Several hundred thousand birds come here. Among the roughly 80 species nesting on Runde even White-tailed Eagles can be found. The different colonies can be seen from the sea, as well as hiking up the mountain. One of the largest seal colonies in the region is found on islets 4 kilometers northeast of Runde. These islets as well as a small portion of Runde’s east and entire west coast are part of Norway’s Ramsar site 2164. A scientific station does not only work in seabird monitoring, but also in marine biology, rocky shore monitoring, oceanography and meteorology.

"The Vega Archipelago, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a myriad of islands scattered in the Norwegian Sea and home to one of Norway’s largest eider duck colony. Of the 6,000 Vega islands, 59 were once inhabited by families that made their living from fishing and from eider down harvesting. Today, there are no year-round residents, but the population returns in the summer to continue the 1,500-year-old tradition of caring for the eider ducks and harvesting their precious down. The eider ducks return to their breeding ground in the Vega Archipelago every year and lay their eggs from May into June."

Enter the arctic circle in Nordfjord and Melfjord, which are part of the impressive and scenic county of Nordland. Here you will discover narrow fjords flanked by steep, beautiful mountains. This region is the home of the Saltfjellet-Svaristen National Park, named for the Saltfjellet mountain range and Svaristen, one of mainland Norway’s largest glaciers. The Svartisen National Park extends to the bottom of Nordfjorden, a branch of the Melfjord, and contains many Saami cultural landmarks. The Saami are the indigenous Finno-Ugric people inhabiting the Arctic areas in Norway, Finland and Sweden; they live off the land through fishing, fur trapping, and herding, and are in fact the only people allowed to herd reindeer in much of the Arctic. Bring your camera to capture the wildlife, including the occasional reindeer or walrus, picturesque fjords with their lush slopes, and the waterfalls that tumble down over smooth rocks.

Blessed with some of the most spectacular scenery in Norway (and goodness only know that this is land blessed with rolling hills soaring peaks valleys tranquil fjords and white sandy beaches so the competition is high!) Leknes is what Norway is meant to be. Pretty red houses lay dotted on the green covered hills and the midnight sun is rises above the horizon from 26th May to 17th July (while in winter the sun does not rise from 9th December to 4th January). Part of the stunning Lofoten islands this pretty port offers much in the way of recreation although understandably most of this is outdoor based. Take a boat ride around the archipelago try your hand at some deep sea fishing or simply stroll thought the city centre perhaps rent a bicycle and discover the hinterland at your own pace. Bikes can be easily rented and note that hybrid and electric bikes are a great option for those who might be a bit out of practice with their pedal power. Gastronomes with a sweet tooth will be rewarded with one simple pleasure: a fresh-from-the-oven skillingsbolle – or big fluffy cinnamon rolls fit for indulging in if all the fresh air has made you hungry! Look out for the quirky coffee shops settle down for some Norwegian kos say takk for maten and enjoy!

Feel your heart flutter, as you catch your first glimpse of that famous emerald haze dancing across the stars, during your visit to this wonderful Arctic gateway. Located in the far north of Norway, a visit to Tromso beckons you to the extremes of this magical country, to explore a fairytale land of jagged mountains, glistening glaciers and husky-pulled sledges. Despite its remote location, you'll discover a perhaps surprisingly cosmopolitan city, with a healthy student population injecting plenty of energy. Sat 250 miles above the Arctic Circle - at 69° north - you can bathe in the midnight sun's glow during summer, before winter brings the thick blackness and starry skies of endless polar nights. The darkness doesn't stop the fun - with a polar night half-marathon taking place in January - but the return of the sun is always a reason for a celebration here. To get the best view over the city, take the cable car to Storsteinen's amazing viewpoint. Magnificent views down over the city, fjord and Tromso's arching bridge will unravel before you. Learn more about northerly traditions, polar expeditions and arctic hunting at the Polar Museum. The Science Centre, meanwhile, explains how humans have harnessed and survived these epic landscapes over the years, and explores Tromso's breathtaking natural spectacle - the northern lights. The city is famed for its extraordinary viewing opportunities, which are often said to be the best in the world. The Alpine Botanic Garden is the most northern such garden on the planet, showcasing some of Norway's hardiest plantlife, which survives and thrives at this nose-bleeding altitude.

Almost a hundred islands and rocks make up the Gjesvӕrstappan Nature Reserve, one of Europe’s largest and most accessible nesting areas for Atlantic seabirds. Less than 10 nautical miles from Nordkapp more than one million nesting birds have been counted on Storstappen, the largest of the islands, and the minor islands next to it. One of the most significant Atlantic Puffin colonies in North Norway is found in this nature reserve. Zodiacs are the best way to look for the Atlantic Puffins, Razorbills, Black and Common Guillemots, Northern Gannets, White-tailed Eagles, and Arctic Skuas, Common Eider Ducks, Common Shags and Great Cormorants as well as various other species.

For those who like to travel far (very far) off the beaten track, then you have found your Nordic nirvana in Skarsvag. Large, sparsely populated (there are just 60 human year round residents), and a joy to all those who revel in stark, unbridled beauty, Skarsvag also enjoys the auspicious title of being the world’s most northerly fishing village.But rolling hills, prolific birdlife and arctic fjords aside, Skarsvag is above all famous for its proximity to the North Cape. Found on the island of Magerøya, the most northernmost point of Europe above the arctic circle is a bucket list basic. Stand beneath the massive metal globe and gaze out onto the Barents Sea, where the only land between you and the North Pole is the Svalbard archipelago. This is truly the land of the midnight sun – in fact, you are so far north that the sun doesn’t even dip beneath the horizon between May and mid-July.The island’s famous bird cliffs are quite spectacular, and home to thousands of puffins, gannets and cormorants. Those willing to hike to cape Knivskjellodden, the northernmost point on Magerøya, will be rewarded with stunning cliff face views of the North Cape Plateau.Before leaving, head into the impressive North Cape Hall for exhibitions on the North Cape’s history. Travellers have been visiting since 1664, when Italian priest Francesco Negri arrived, so there are some tales to tell! More intriguingly, a tunnel has been hewn into the rock, leading down to the cliff face, complete with a chapel.

Bear Island is considered Svalbard’s southernmost island, roughly half way between Spitsbergen and Norway’s North Cape. Although the last polar bears were seen in 2004, the name goes back to Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz and his visit in 1596. The island has been used to hunt walrus, for whaling, and even coal mining has taken place. The strategic location on the border of the Norwegian Sea and the Barents Sea has led to a meteorological station being set up by Norway near Gravodden on Bear Island’s north coast. Some two thirds of the island is a relatively flat plain with shallow freshwater lakes and Ramsar Wetland, while the entire island and the surrounding waters are a Nature Reserve. Bear Island has also been designated an Import Bird Area as it is a staging area for Pink-footed and Barnacle Geese and the steep cliffs south of Sørhamna are home to thousands of breeding seabirds. This is a specially protected area where Zodiacs are allowed to cruise along the cliffs around Kapp Kolthoff. In smaller amounts Atlantic Puffins, Northern Gannets, Glaucous Gulls and Great Skuas are found in between the large Black-legged Kittiwake, Little Auk, Common Guillemot and Brünnich’s Guillemot colonies. The constant battering of the sea has not only created impressive sea caves and tunnels, but unfortunately the Russian vessel Petrozavodsk shipwrecked near Revdalen at the base of the limestone cliffs and the waves are causing a continuous disintegration of the remains of the ship.

Svalbard’s Southern Region and specifically Spitsbergen’s west coast is less ice-clogged than the rest of Svalbard due to the moderating influenced of the Gulf Stream. Several fjords cut into the western coast of Spitsbergen and have been used by trappers and hunters as well as the different mining companies that tried to exploit the riches of the archipelago’s largest island of Spitsbergen. Remains of huts and mines as well as active commercial and scientific settlements can be found and visited. Depending on the time of the season glaciers can be visited on foot or by sea. Northern places like Magdalenefjorden and Hornsund will reveal fascinating views of geological formations craggy mountains spectacular glaciers and a variety of seabirds and seals.

Svalbard’s Southern Region and specifically Spitsbergen’s west coast is less ice-clogged than the rest of Svalbard due to the moderating influenced of the Gulf Stream. Several fjords cut into the western coast of Spitsbergen and have been used by trappers and hunters as well as the different mining companies that tried to exploit the riches of the archipelago’s largest island of Spitsbergen. Remains of huts and mines as well as active commercial and scientific settlements can be found and visited. Depending on the time of the season glaciers can be visited on foot or by sea. Northern places like Magdalenefjorden and Hornsund will reveal fascinating views of geological formations craggy mountains spectacular glaciers and a variety of seabirds and seals.

Svalbard’s Southern Region and specifically Spitsbergen’s west coast is less ice-clogged than the rest of Svalbard due to the moderating influenced of the Gulf Stream. Several fjords cut into the western coast of Spitsbergen and have been used by trappers and hunters as well as the different mining companies that tried to exploit the riches of the archipelago’s largest island of Spitsbergen. Remains of huts and mines as well as active commercial and scientific settlements can be found and visited. Depending on the time of the season glaciers can be visited on foot or by sea. Northern places like Magdalenefjorden and Hornsund will reveal fascinating views of geological formations craggy mountains spectacular glaciers and a variety of seabirds and seals.

Svalbard’s northern region is less influenced by the Norwegian Current coming through the Greenland Sea than the southern region and shows more ice. The northern part of the island of Spitsbergen shows quite a number of impressive fjords, bays and glaciers. The Nordaust Svalbard Nature Reserve includes Spitsbergen’s east coast, the Hinlopen Strait, Nordaustlandet and some islands further east like Kvitoya and Storoya. Several walrus haul-outs, spectacular glaciers, bird cliffs and bird islands, as well as surprising flora in Arctic deserts and the possibility to see polar bears and to visit historically important sites make this an area prone for exploration. Ice conditions will dictate which sites can be seen.

Svalbard’s northern region is less influenced by the Norwegian Current coming through the Greenland Sea than the southern region and shows more ice. The northern part of the island of Spitsbergen shows quite a number of impressive fjords, bays and glaciers. The Nordaust Svalbard Nature Reserve includes Spitsbergen’s east coast, the Hinlopen Strait, Nordaustlandet and some islands further east like Kvitoya and Storoya. Several walrus haul-outs, spectacular glaciers, bird cliffs and bird islands, as well as surprising flora in Arctic deserts and the possibility to see polar bears and to visit historically important sites make this an area prone for exploration. Ice conditions will dictate which sites can be seen.

Longyearbyen is the biggest settlement in Svalbard. Seat of the Norwegian administration, it also has the best services and infrastructure in the archipelago. Located deep in the Adventfjord, a sidearm of the Isfjorden (Icefjord), Longyearbyen’s airport can be used all-year round, but its harbor is blocked by ice in winter. Most shops, hotels, restaurants and a hospital are within easy walking distance of the port. One of the most prominent buildings in town is the UNIS center, where several Norwegian universities have joined forces to operate and offer the northernmost higher education to both Norwegian and international students. Adjacent to UNIS, and well worth a visit, is the Svalbard Museum, covering the natural history and exploitation of Svalbard. Remnants of the former mining activity can be seen all around Longyearbyen and even in town.